Paris Fashion Week - Days 1, 2 & 3
Fashion Week just finished and we said ‘bye, see you in stores’ to the collections of this Spring 15 season. I’m finally ready to write about all the runway shows of Paris Fashion Week, and as nine days of shows are behind us, I decided to divide them into three groups. Today, the first three days.
Léa Peckre delivered a collection of simple dresses in sheer fabrics, without giving up on girly and feminine decorations. It was sexy, a little bit serious but at the same time a little bit playful, a happy contradiction. Pascal Millet went all sexy and provocative, among all the pieces I liked the long chemisiers.
The most defining style for Dévastée collection was hipster chic. It could sound like a strange thing, but the prints or laser-cut textiles drawing a world of symbols on the garments gave me a hint of ‘hipsterhood’, but the silhouettes and the shapes were chic and subtly elegant. Photos of hands, childlike drawings, maxi polka dots were just some of the other elements giving life to this fresh collection.
Anrealage (photo 1) put on an A M A Z I N G show! This is the first time this brand, from Japan, shows at Paris Fashion Week, and the start could only promise more wonderful things for the future. The name comes from the intermingling of three words, real, unreal and age. And I don’t know if it is because the name suggested it, but I could really see this real/unreal thing in the shadows covering like a blanket the entire collection. There were shadows in the black/white pieces, there was the umbrella casting a shadow over one of the models walking down the runway, lace, knit. And there were also the plain white pieces, at the border between sculpture and fashion.
Anthony Vaccarello had a collection where the strong point was the wide range of pieces available, but in general it really looked like too much Versace - remember he’s the new designer for Versus Versace. Jacquemus (photo 2) was really about summer, I particularly liked the sailor stripes on the deconstructed dresses.
Hood By Air (photo 3) presented the second part of the spring15 collection, after New York - the third part will be later in October. This time I could see a sort of period taste in the looks - it reminded me of Pirates of the Caribbean, am I wrong? - and it was actually more feminine than usual. It’s really becoming a very relevant brand in the showbiz, I guess we all expect great things from it.
I’ve seen similar collections to Christophe Lemaire’s before, but this one had a level of cleanliness you can’t really see often. There was just one colour per look - and when it’s two, one of them is either white, cream or black. There were essential coats, white shirts, perfectly fitted trousers: basic pieces appealing to everyone and which everyone should have in their closet.
The collection by Cédric Charlier (photo 4) was not my favourite but I really appreciated the fact it was coming from a reflection about the process of tailoring and sewing: you could see it in the dangling threads, like garments left unfinished - but still tailored at a second glance; you could see it in the tailor’s chalk signs, in the raw hems, in the layers of ‘free’ fabric flowing gently during the walk. And I loved the wide range of materials.
Damir Doma delivered an interesting collection where the sporty look we’ve seen so much during this season was perfectly mixed to the biker style. Most of the times one of the two prevails, but in general it was a happy marriage. Dries Van Noten's hippie extravaganza (photo 5) was inspired by the famous painting Ophelia, by John Everett Millais, and of that painting had the dark atmosphere and dull - but vibrant - colours. I found the mixing of prints brilliant, and the use of fabrics amazingly chic and elegant, as they were mostly chiffon and silk. The collection was really long, but unlike usual, this was a strong move as it enabled the viewer to gradually fall in love with the line.
Rochas (photo 6) was frankly all about safeness: it was romantic, it was traditional, hyper-feminine, and the elements used to convey this atmosphere were the ever present lace, chiffon and powdery tones. Yet, the collection was exquisitely executed and conceived. The chiffon was so ethereal it looked impalpable, and most of the dresses were traditional, yes, but they were one of those which can still make a woman dream. But wait, what about the shoes? A happy contradictory, definitely not-safe little detail which make you question everything this collection was about.
Aganovich went for draping, but it was a highly-structured kind of draping. I preferred the pieces which had less draping but more clean volumes, like the beautiful kimonos. Draping was present in Vionnet’s collection as well, sending Greek goddesses with a future-like style. The simplicity of the whole collection really remembered the early Vionnet.
Balenciaga (photo 7) delivered all the signature elements of the brand: strong structured shapes - in the armour-like tops made of chiffon or the biker jackets in stiff fabrics - and looks polished to the extreme. I loved the webs covering some of the looks, made of lace, knit or leather. And I found very smart the vague sporty feeling pervading the whole collection.
Roland Mouret (photo 8) was organic and cohesive even if the pieces were all very different. A pleat there, a straight line here, a raw hem on a dress, colour blocking and thin elegant obi belts were the elements which really caught my attention. I fell in love with Manish Arora (photo 9) and his attempt at merging cultures: Indian heritage and Western shapes. One thing I noticed were the eyes scattered throughout the collection: a reference to clairvoyance maybe? The see-through of most of the dresses could be a hint of that.
I was shocked at how bad Balmain’s collection was: it was just 80s old - this was Paris Fashion Week, not an exhibit of 80s fashion in a museum. Barbara Bui (photo 10) put on another very good collection. There was Indian tradition in this as well, and the designer decided to mix it with streetwear. Most of the pieces are just slightly better than good but the outerwear was just so amazing it outshone many other collections. And when bright colours and embroideries were not in the look to reference the Indian part, there was the draping which kind of reminded of the Sari.
The shows on the third day were closed by Christian Wijnants. What’s better than waterproof fabrics when the inspiration is sea? And there was also chiffon to let beautifully flow in the Ocean wind, as well as knitwear to cover yourself on the boat in chilly days.