Milan Fashion Week: Days 1 & 2
Sorry for the break I took yesterday but you know, when you look at 30 runway shows a day at least - even if it’s just from the Internet - sometimes you need to rest. But welcome to Milan!
I’m extremely excited because Milan Fashion Week is always my favourite part of the fashion month, with the most exciting fashion shows. Let’s go straight to the first two days of shows.
On the first day, Angelos Bratis was the chosen one for this season to show at the Armani Theatre a collection in which - I was probably influenced by knowing that the designer is Greek - there was a new take on Greek tradition, which has become cliché: draping. But draping this time was subtle and easy, and all the outfits had a relaxed, chilling vibe.
Stella Jean (photo 1) is definitely one of the designers whose collection I expect more during fashion week. This time she did one of her usual fantasy trips, deciding to go back to her roots to Haiti, the place which inspired her for her prints for this season. Now, though, she added a touch of sporty to her looks, which really freshens up her chic flamboyant style. I have to admit many of the things she presented for spring 2015 are something which I’ve already seen in her work: balloon skirts, elegant coats and some prints, exactly like others she’s already used. I still like it, but I hope she changes some little things in the future, because the risk is becoming redundant and boring.
Gucci (photo 2) was just one of the dozens brands choosing to translate 70s into a modern atmosphere this season. Frida Giannini chose warm earth tones, boots, denim and an overall rock vibe - Rolling Stones, I would say - always keeping the elegant style of the brand.
Antonio Marras for his line I’m Isola Marras was one of those designers seduced by sport this year and conceived a collection for a young girl wearing oversize outfits in comfortable shapes and who loves colour blocking. Fay (photo 3) went sporty as well, mixing it with glamorous sequins proving again to be one of the most playful brands.
Alberta Ferretti (photo 4) set a challenge for herself this season: how to keep the usual romanticism of the brand inserting a sexy, slightly rock and roll 70s style. So, she experimented, delivering very 70s shapes in delicate fabrics and mixing the ethereal sheer chiffon with denim. Awesome.
Fausto Puglisi chose optical effects for his prints, while Francesco Scognamiglio (photo 5) went very vintage drawing inspiration by 30s. His collection was definitely dated, but not old-fashioned. It looked completely authentic and sexiness was not missing.
Brunello Cucinelli applied menswear tailoring to womenswear this time, feminizing the collection a little bit with ostrich feathers. The dresses in lighter tones had easier silhouettes and softer fabrics. I was then stunned by La Petite Robe by Chiara Boni, which more art than simply fashion. She was inspired by the Italian artist Lucio Fontana, using solid colours and putting up a real exhibit with only four dresses halfway between ready to wear and avant-garde.
Day 2 started out in a great way with Max Mara, again taking 70s as starting point for the collection, with tight waists, long shapes and beautiful very long coats which reached the models’ ankles. Prints were the element which lightened up the looks.
I was skeptical about Emporio Armani (photo 6) collection, because usually it’s very toned-down and subtle - read ‘bordeline boring’. And the starting looks had a kind of understated beauty which I usually associate with Armani. But then it came: blue. Definitely Armani’s favourite colour, this time was declined in every possible shade, and with the blue also came some little elements which made the clothes less ‘normcore’ without giving up on simplicity: some ruffles there, some feathers here, beautiful effortless knots adorning basic little dresses.
Fendi (photo 7) was all about movement: sporty styles, dangling strips of leather, mixing prints, everything helped giving a dynamic impression. DSquared2 (photo 8), then, chose essential lines but flamboyant prints resulting in totally modern outfits. I loved how the ruffles on skirts, dresses and tops made the fabric look like carnations.
Prada joined the ‘normcore’ movement for this season, without obviously deleting its own signature. The white lines following the panels of the outfits were something which I’d already seen in Prada’s collections, but it was a slight reference to vintage, like the brocade, the collage of different fabrics and raw hems, which really made the collection stand out. Daniela Gregis won me over with a collection full of linens, wrinkly fabrics and a feeling which made me think of a Greek island in summer with its effortless beauty.
To finish with an explosion, Moschino (photo 9) is the right choice. Jeremy Scott continues his pop art-like mission of analysing every aspect of the modern economy, and after fast food last season, he decided to turn to another phenomenon of the XX century: Barbie! Instead of dressing the famous doll, something which many designers have been doing lately, he decided to dress his models like her. And so, here you go with shocking pink separates, Moschino logos using Barbie font, cliché attires - what about the pink mirror iPhone case? - as well as with new and exciting ideas, like the huge belt used as a top. Barbie reloaded.